In the 1950s, America was a land of overdone roast beef and canned green beans-a gastronomic wasteland. Most restaurants relied on frozen, second-rate ingredients and served bogus 'Continental' cuisine. Authentic French, Italian, and Chinese foods were virtually unknown. There was no such thing as food criticism at the time, and no such thing as a restaurant critic. Cooking at home wasn't thought of as a source of pleasure. Guests didn't chat around the kitchen. Professional equipment and cookwa